Singita

Our flight from Johannesburg took off out of a charming thatched covered "terminal" where we watched videos of leopards chasing the local prey; in this case, a small impala. The 19-seater flight over the game lands lasts only 50 minutes, whereupon we make 2 stops to let off passengers at two different game reserves before we get to the third stop in Sabi Sand, Singita.

Rated the best hotel and destination in the world, it is easy to see why. We emerge out of our open jeep to a shangri la overlooking a ridge where elephants are grazing in the distance. We are in the bush!

We have iced tea on the lobby-deck while hearing about the amenities of this resort. Earth toned cushions with multi textured pillows surround white sandstone. There is a grey- stoned fireplace embedded in the white sandstone that proves to be my destination on the morning safaris. We overlook a large tree which hangs over the outside dining wooden deck where vevets (adorable but wicked little monkeys) wait for you to leave your table before they quickly descend, take your food, and then retreat before you can blink.

But the piece de resistance is our room. Individual organic stone huts with thatched roofs that are like small homes. The living and bedroom are separated only by a large stone fireplace that is open on all sides. Wines, water, safari treats and every imaginable miniature liquer sit atop the entryway table. The 4 poster canopy bed is fitted with sheer muslin for night time sleeping. (There were almost no mosqitoes). There is a wooden deck with 2 loungechairs, outdoor rock shower, and a private pool overlooking the reserve. There is a dressing area leading to the bathroom created out of granite with double sinks and a porcelain footed tub. All wood is mahogany and the handles are made out of impala horns.

On our first safari I recognize the other couple - I had met Dorothy and Albert in Aspen many years prior. Small world! We meet Leonard, our knoweldgeable ranger (21 years), and Lawrence, his tracker. The tracker sits on a retractable seat ahead of the vehicle. These men love what they do and are expert at identifying the multitude of wildlife we will see as well as their habits, life-span, favored spots and favored food . . . We see snoozing lions, rhinos, elephants and giraffes on this twilight outing. You are in an uncovered jeep and you get pretty close to these animals. They are used to the vehicles and are unafraid. We stop as the sun goes down, and our guides open the front of the jeep to make a table and take out cocktails and hors d'oeuvres as we watch the sunset . . . we see a great horned owl in the tree on our dark ride home . . .

The next morning we awake at 5 and are accompanied to the lobby-deck by 5:30 for coffee and fruit. (You are not allowed to walk from your room to the main lodge alone when it is dark or early dawn because of the risk of a large animal on your path . . .) You take everything you've brought and add a fleece poncho from your dressing room mahogany drawer and venture into the wild just before dawn. It is quiet and quite brisk. We ride for about 15 minutes in silence and cold before the sun begins to warm us and we come across a family of warthogs. (This proves to be Richard's favorite animal). There are loads of imapla, kudu, and springbok (deer-like). We come to a herd of buffalo and I got some great close-ups. Then we see a few zebra. Pausing by a waterhole, we come across several hippos. They are very dangerous we are told. Here we stop and have a breakfast snack on the jeep, hot coffee and and biscotti. On our way back to the lodge (these outings are 3 to 4 hours) we venture off road to see a family of lions - and I get a great shot of the baby cub.

Because we are on a private game reserve, we can go off road if we are following one of the big 5.

This enables us to get quite close as often both lions and leopards hunt at night and rest during the day. The next day proves quite fruitful as we see the coveted leopard. He is snoozing in the middle of a sandy area, in between some trees. He seems quite unaffected by 3 jeeps but if any one in these vehicles as much as stands up, he would be alerted and be out of there. The elephants that morning were adorable. The baby got up on his hind legs and greeted us. One actually got quite close to me and lightly touched me with his trunk -!

One day I elected to skip the afternoon safari and just enjoy our deck for the last time. I am reading and enjoying the stereo i-pod specially selected by the lodge, when out of the corner of my eye see something cross in front to the right - it is a baboon! And I am watching a waterbuck graze in the near distance. There is a magical feeling about being so entwined with nature here in Africa. Especially under such luxurious conditions. Nothing I ever could have imagined.

I wanted to pack up our thatched suite, with its every amenity, and move it to northern California. There is only one other thing I would like to return to experience which we didn't - and that would be to sleep outdoors on the range in your muslin-canopy 4 poster bed - which is actually offered as an overnight to guests at one of the lodges. Now THAT would be an African adventure!